CAMPRO is an engine developed by
Proton and with the help from Lotus. This engine powers the Proton
Gen-2, the Proton Satria Neo, the Proton Waja Campro, the Proton Persona
as well as Proton's future models.
There are 3 types of CAMPRO
engines which are the 1.3/1.6L IAFM , 1.6L CPS & 1.6L CFE(turbo). The basic Campro
engine coded as S4PH is a basic DOHC 16-valve 1.6 L engine that produces
110 bhp (82 kW) @ 6,000 rpm of power and 148 N·m (109 ft·lbf) of
torque. The S4PH engine can be fitted with Cam Profile Switching (CPS) and Variable Inlet Manifold (VIM) technology. While for the S4PE DOHC 16-valve 1.3 L engine, it is able to produce 94 bhp (70 kW) @ 6,000
rpm and the torque of 120 N·m (89 ft·lbf) @ 4,000 rpm. However the S4PH engine seems to be quite powerful at higher revs,
its performance is reportedly sluggish at lower revs.
This is proven by driving uphill, where drivers who drive the manual transmission version have to periodically shift between 2nd gear and 3rd gear. This is due to its torque dip in the crucial 2,000-3,000 rpm range where the torque actually decreases before picking up back to the maximum torque at 4,000 rpm. This torque characteristic can be clearly seen in manufacturer published engine performance curves.. Ok guys, don't let this drawback stop you from modifying. This is because CAMPRO engine does have some potential and it can be modified easily and the result will sure surprise you. If going down to NA (naturally aspirated) path, with some modifications you can easily up the HP approximate 140-150hp on engine. If going to FI (forced induction) path, the low boost turbo systems will easily produce more HP compare to NA path.
This is proven by driving uphill, where drivers who drive the manual transmission version have to periodically shift between 2nd gear and 3rd gear. This is due to its torque dip in the crucial 2,000-3,000 rpm range where the torque actually decreases before picking up back to the maximum torque at 4,000 rpm. This torque characteristic can be clearly seen in manufacturer published engine performance curves.. Ok guys, don't let this drawback stop you from modifying. This is because CAMPRO engine does have some potential and it can be modified easily and the result will sure surprise you. If going down to NA (naturally aspirated) path, with some modifications you can easily up the HP approximate 140-150hp on engine. If going to FI (forced induction) path, the low boost turbo systems will easily produce more HP compare to NA path.
However, not
all mods are for power though, there are many area's of braking and
suspension that any stock car can always be improved with. Along with
other drive line upgrades, you can have a smooth reliable car, with
improved handling, and provide that little bit of sporty power to keep
most people satisfied.
So I would like to compile a
list of modification that can be done for CAMPRO engine. This section is
to be used as a guide in your modification
Normal Campro Engine S4PH 1.6 L DOHC
Proton S4PE 1.3L CAMPRO ENGINE with IAFM (Intake Air-Fuel Module)
Proton S4PH 1.6L CAMPRO ENGINE with Cam Profile Switching (CPS)
Proton CamPro CFE 1.6L engine is the light-pressure intercooled turbocharged version of the 1.6-litre CamPro engine.
The mild modifications are designed
for the every day driver, wanting improvements across the board without
sacrificing road comfort, fuel economy or driveability.
1. Air Filters and Cold Air Intake Kits
Open-pod air filter system
Drop-in air filter system.
The factory air box system on these vehicles, is quite restrictive.
1.
Fitment of an aftermarket replacement air filter. You can get it from
K&N or Simota which this will improved air flow and throttle response
2. Fitment of a Cold Air Intake Kit.
The Cold air kit relocates to
the front bumper, pulling cold air especially where utilized with a
aftermarket front bumper. Any aftermarket open pod filter is fine. The
plastic pipe kit I honestly recommend, other than being the cheapest, is
one of the best bang for dollar modifications you can do.
If you have done a good job for the
intake system, now is the time to do something about the exhaust
system.
Upgrading the exhaust system is one of the most beneficial
modification and gain the most HP compare to others. In short, it worth
the money to change the exhaust system. However, before you start to
change the exhaust system, you must make a decision on until which level
you plan to mod your car.
Mild, medium or extreme modification has
totally different exhaust size modification. Why I advised you to make
the decision before moding the car because you can save up some money
for this modification. To be honest, I wasted a lot of money for my
satria's exhaust system. This is because I changed the exhaust for 1.5L
engine then change again for MIVEC engine and then change again for my
current 4G93T . So you can imagine how much I had wasted for only
the exhaust system. For moding the exhaust system, I suggested few
guidelines as following:-
1. Naturally Aspirated - Stock
ECU- You are only after mild improvements to make the car sportier, but
don't intend to do any real serious mods. This being the case stick with
replacement of the stock exhaust with either a rear muffler upgrade
only 1.7" flow oval shaped unit, or complete it with a 1.7" press bent
exhaust system with new muffler and resonator. Cat converter should
remain stock (or better just trash it ~but you are not being kind to mother nature after that). Any larger on the system would not provide without
sufficient more expensive mods, any real gains.
2.
Naturally Aspirated - Piggy Back ECU - you are after mild to medium
improvements to make the car sportier, with slightly more than average
vehicle modifications. This being the case, I recommend a 2" diameter
replacement exhaust with a new resonator and muffler. No need to go
mandrel bent unless you have money to throw away. This setup will handle
the majority of modifications I have listed short of turbo systems
3.
Naturally Aspirated -Standalone ECU - okay you are an extreme modder.
Twin throttle bodies, camshafts the list goes on. I recommend in this
case either a 2.2" mandrel bent system
4. Turbo Charged - either from 2.5" to 3" is more than enough for a CAMPRO bolt on turbo.
3. Suspension Upgrade - Level 1 (Sport Springs)
Basically at this point you are still
have a midly modified vehicle and want to just improve the looks
slightly and handling. I recommend in this situation the following :-
1. Replacement of stock springs
with some lowering/harder sport springs - either 30mm or 50mm lowered units depending
upon how low & hardened (my current car is 7K front / 5k rear) you want to go .
2. Fitment of a sway bar. Reduces body roll without reducing drive ability.
3.
Fitment of a strut brace. Reduces the tendancy of the vehicle to float
on the road and makes it less sensitive to changes in road camber,
resulting in less need to constantly adjust the steering wheel to keep
the car driving straight.
This package will proved a well
balanced vehicle, capable of handling corners at higher speeds, will
feel safer at higher speeds especially above 100km/hr. The steering will
feel more precise and you will have overall more confidence in pushing
the vehicle harder.
For next entry , will update on how medium mods is done. Thanks!
Great info dude....!!.. Definitely going to start light modifying my ride..
ReplyDeleteMacam amik dr sini je: http://www.ben9166.com/2011/05/campro-engine-modification-from-mild-to.html
ReplyDeleteyou should give credits to original author bro!
ReplyDeleteyou should give credits to original author bro!
ReplyDeleteX malu betul main copy paste
ReplyDeleteButo
ReplyDeleteSekarang semua main copy paste, even ben9166 pun cedok dari website rpw
ReplyDelete